The
AFRICA 4X4 CAFE: 4x4 Fundi:
Is
an internationally recognized Customs document entitling the
holder to temporarily import a vehicle, duty free into countries
which normally require a deposit against import charges. The
Carnet has up to 25 pages and needs to be stamped on entry and
exit. You can go into a country more than once but you need
to go through the stamping procedure again. The RAC or AA are
responsible for the Carnet so you need to pay them or provide
security via either a bank guarantee, an insurance indemnity
with RL Davison or a cash deposit. The indemnity is 10% of the
Carnet. 50% is refundable on safe completion of document. It
takes minimum 1 week to issue. The cost depends on where you
are going and rates of custom duty and tax in each country.
Custom rates are a percentage of the vehicle so most of Africa
is 200% of the vehicle value but for Egypt it is 500%. For very
helpful and friendly advice contact Paul
Gowen or go to the RAC
website Carnet page.
The
Carnet is a booklet with either 10 or 25 pages, each page just
like the other. Each page has three separate parts:
Your
copy (top part) - at each border post you have to ensure
that upon entering you must get the copy stamped as well as
exiting the country. Once you return home, you have to send
to booklet back with each copy containing an import stamp
and export stamp.
The import copy (bottom part) - At the point of entry,
the custom officer will tear this part off and send it to
a centralised office (sometimes you will wonder whether they
actually do it if you see the state of the border crossing
office). S/he will stamp it and it is your responsibility
to ensure that they stamp it, stamp your copy and take their
copy.
The export copy - This part is in the middle of each
page, just below your copy. Once you leave the country, the
officer at the departure side of the border control post will
stamp this part as well as your copy and tear the export copy
out and it is their duty to send it back to this centralised
office. Once more it is your responsibility to ensure they
stamp your copy and tear out the export copy. What they do
with theirs is not your concern, because you have your copy
with both stamps. If a dispute arises, then you will have
the proof. No need to tell you therefore that this document
is even more important and valuable than your passport.
The
following quotation came from the RAC in 2003:
Approx.
value: 5000GBP25
page carnet 75.00 stg (member) or 90.00 stg (non-member)Security
required 200% of vehicle value. Which means either a
full cash deposit or bank guarantee for the sum of 10,000 stg
or an insurance premium which will be 10% of the security figure
e.g. 1,000 plus 5% ins. premium tax of 50.00 stg.
50%
of this is refunded by the brokers on return of the correctly
discharged carnet to RAC.
Total:
GBP 1000 + 90 + 50 = 1140
2)
TIP (Temporary Import Permit):
If
you don't have a Carnet de Passage then when you pass into another
country, customs will issue you with a TIP - Temporary Import
Permit - this allows you to bring your vehicle into a country
without paying a huge deposit (in case you sell the car and
bugger off without paying duty). You'll buy it for about 50USD
and it'll last 1, 3 or 6 months months usually so this is you
"signing in" your vehicle. Sometimes there is a bit
of paper to put in the window - sometimes not - just hang onto
the receipt. When you leave the country you'll "sign out"
and "sign in" at the next customs office. No problem
really.
3)
COMESA Yellow Card (International 3rd Party Insurance):
The
only insurance that is legally required in most African countries
is 3rd party, but if you pay 50USD at every border for it, your
costs will start to dramatically mount up, so an easier/cheaper
option is to buy the COMESA yellow card insurance. The Comesa
Yellow Card (CYC) is an international 3rd party policy so you
no longer need to buy 3rd party insurance at the border of any
member country. It is quite often asked for by name by various
African police forces and so there is no quibbling over its
validity.
NB:
The CYC is valid in: ANG; BOT; BUR; DRC; DJI; EGT; ERI; ETH;
KEN; LES; MAL; MOZ; NAM; RSA; RWA; SOM; SUD; SWA; TAN; UGA;
ZAM; ZIM.
If
you are starting from SA you can’t buy it in SA, you’ll
have to buy it in Zim or Zam (and maybe in Malawi etc) as the
CYC is not valid in the country in which you buy it. Therefore
you will have to buy LOCAL 3rd party insurance at the border
first – usually for the length of time that you’ll
be travelling – then you’ll go to any insurance
broker in the next major town and buy the CYC as an EXTENSION
to your existing local 3rd party insurance policy.
I
buy mine at Jupiter Insurance in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe or through
the AA in Kenya.
My
only contact for information though is in Kenya: Ring the AA
in Nairobi - contact me for details - tell them how long you
want it to last and when you want it to start, no. of people
travelling etc, and they'll advise you.
4)
IDP (International Driving Permit):
An
International Driving Permit (IDP) allows you to drive a private
motor vehicle overseas when accompanied by a valid UK driving
licence. IDPs are valid for 12 months from the date of issue.
There are two IDPs available, a 1926 and a 1949. Most countries
require a 1949 Convention IDP but for certain African countries,
ie: Burundi & Somalia, a 1926 Convention IDP is necessary,
but, even
if you are not travelling to either of these countries, get
both.
Both
1949 and 1926 Convention IDPs can be issued to people aged 18
and over who hold a valid full UK (England, Scotland, Wales
and Northern Ireland) driving licence, or can obtain such licences
on the basis of pass certificates (within the last two years).
IDPs cannot be issued to holders of UK provisional licences
without the pass certificates.
When
a policeman asks for your driving licence then give them one
of these - do not give them your actual licence unless specifically
asked for - they never do. In Kenya you are legally required
to hold an IDP otherwise you could be legally liable for a fine
- I don't know which other countries require the IDP but you
do not want to lay yourself open to extortion/bribery.
In
case the policeman wants a bribe and is therefore hanging onto
your IDP - you can safely drive away and leave him to rot in
hell. You can also get multiple IDP's - in the three months
before you leave: buy two in month three, two in month two and
two just before you depart - that gives you six "get out
of jail free" cards.
Also
"lose" your actual licence before you leave - 2 or
3 times - this gives you plenty of spares.
The
AFRICA 4X4 CAFE: frequently asked questions: general
1)
What is the better place to buy? Kenya or South Africa?
Both
countries have a relatively expensive 2nd hand car markets.
Although I have not bought and sold in SA, I would advise
that you buy in Kenya. I say this because you can enter SA
with a Kenyan reg’d vehicle (without a carnet de passage)
but not the other way round: Kenya definitely requires a Carnet
for all foreign vehicles. Not having to pay for a carnet is
a significant financial advantage – you can enter all
countries, south of Kenya, on a TIP and you can also visit
Ethiopia by lodging your Vehicle Log Book at the border. However
having a Carnet de Passage is a significant logistical advantage
- it all comes down to money in the end - if you can afford
it get one, if you cannot you can do without it just makes
border crossings a bit more hassle.
SA may have the better range of choices, especially regarding
overlanding kit, but for short regional trips you can buy
a reasonable vehicle in Kenya.
2)
Are there any problems for a foreigner in buying a car (in either
SA or Kenya)?
To
transfer ownership of the vehicle, which results in your name
being added to log book, requires the lodging of a transfer
form at Times Tower. The transfer form is signed by both the
seller and the buyer, and needs to be accompanied by copies
of both the buyer’s and seller’s PIN certificates,
and the vehicle log book. Take your ID and local address to
Times Tower and queue for your PIN no. The rest can be done
for you by the Mary Githinji at the AA in The Sarit Centre.
South
Africa:
Complete
an application form at your nearest traffic office. Bring the
following documents:
-
Identity Document
- Proof
of ownership of the vehicle
- Roadworthy
certificate (if the vehicle is used).
- A
traffic register number (TRN)
is issued to foreign citizens who are not in possession of
a South African Identity Document and serves the purpose of
an acceptable identification number used for road traffic
transactions.
Steps
to get a TRN:
- Visit
your nearest traffic office
- Complete
form ANR, Application and Notice in Respect of Traffic Register
Number.
Required Documents:
- Certified
copy of a passport or temporary residence permit
- Identity
document issued by a recognised authority.
When
registering the vehicle you will need the original of the current
registration certificate as well as the transfer document completed
and signed by both the transferor and the transferee. This form
is available at any vehicle registration office.
NB:
Registration must be accompanied by a new Road Worthiness Certificate.
Get this before you part with the cash - it could throw up some
mechanical problems that you may be able to use to bargain the
price down.
3)
How long does it take to become the owner?
You can take possession of the vehicle straight away, but in
Kenya it may take up to 2 weeks for the appropriate paperwork
to be completed so that you can take the vehicle out of the
country.
4)
What fuel do you advise? petrol or diesel? And what's the average
price of these in Southeast Africa? And how much range should we
minimal have with a car?
Diesel is preferred for long distance overlanding but either
fuel will do as long as you don’t start fording too many
rivers. Average price is 1 - 1.2 USD/L. Full tank plus at least
1, preferably 2 in Zimbabwe, 20L jerrycans of fuel.
5)
What brand would you advise?
Toyota's
are very strong & dependable and therefore keep their value.
Only buy a LandRover if you are a good mechanic and/or the vehicle
is still under warranty. In secondhand vehicles take a particular
look at older vehicles: Mitsubishi Pajero, Isuzu Trooper and
Hilux Surf as these are affordable 4x4 vehicles.
6)
What's the minimum price for a decent car?
You can get a basic but decent 4x4 for 7000 – 10000 USD.
At this end of the market (unless I know the vehicle’s
history) I never even start talking about money until I have
had the vehicle given a thorough mechanical check by a trusted
garage/mechanic, find out how much will be required to spend
on the vehicle to get it roadworthy and then use that info to
bargain the price down.
An
Australian client of mine bought an older Pajero for 7000USD,
toured Kenya, Uganda and Ethiopia before selling their vehicle
for a good price in Moyale, North Kenya. Another client paid
10,000USD for a Toyota Surf that toured Kenya plus Tanzania
and Malawi so the message is that you do not need a top of the
range 4x4 to get a top of the range experience. However, vehicles
are double the price that you'd pay for in the UK.
7)
What city should we buy in?
In
EA: Nairobi. In SA: Jo’burg. Be aware of rust problems
in Cape Town.
8)
Should we buy from a private person or a car company?
I
have heard nothing good about buying from car dealers in Nairobi
and have bought all my vehicles privately – AFTER a
thorough mechanical check.
NB: Make particularly sure that the VIN/Engine no.s on the
vehicle correspond to those on the paperwork.
9)
Is there any form of independent technical inspection, so we can
have the car checked before we buy it?
The
AA can give you a valuation but I prefer a full mechanical
inspection from a trusted garage/mechanic. Pick and choose
from these guidelines if you want peace of mind:
-
Things to ask on the phone:
-
What engine does it have?
-
Is it Automatic or Manual transmission?
- What
year model is it?
-
Is it constant 4wd or 2H/4H/4L selectable?
-
Are there any panel damages or mechanical/electrical issues?
- Has
it ever been in an accident?
- Were
you the original owner and does it have logbooks and service
history?
- How
much life is left in the tyres?
- How
long has it been on the market?
-
What is the current mileage (and is this Miles or Kilometres)?
- Is
there any rust?
- Things
to check at a test drive:
- VERY
IMPORTANT: Check that the VIN (Vehicle Identification
Number) recorded on page one of the Car Inspection Report
is identical to the number recorded on the registration document
(V5).
- VERY
IMPORTANT: Check when next cam-belt change is due.
- Rust
around water pump - check impeller blades
- Thermostat
- potential overheating
- Full
steering lock and listen for clunk (steering stops).
- Check
all 4WD transmission operations.
- Check
for smoky engine.
- Check
for rattly engine.
- Check
service record for completeness, including recorded mileage
at last service.
-
Check MOT certificate (UK only).
- Check
that the cooling fan switch is working OK - i.e. that the
cooling fan comes on automatically when hot.
- Check
spare wheel, tyre and tools. If applicable, check if key for
locking wheel nuts is present.
- Check
radiator for stains or leaks.
- Check
rear springs for butt sag.
- Check
all electrics especially the electric back window if present.
- Check
glowplugs dash light.
- Check
tailgate window inc heating element.
- Check
for window rattles and operation.
- Check
for leaks in sunroof
- Check
condition of driveshaft boots - scored? holed?
- Check
brake discs for scoring and squeaks.
- Check
for any oil leaks.
- Check
under/behind chrome bumpers for rust (there almost certainly
will be some).
- Check
bodywork for corrosion, dents and scratches.
- Operation
and fit/alignment of doors/bonnet/boot-lid/tailgate.
- Operation
of sunroof (if present).
- Operation
of all locks, including child locks in the rear doors.
- Operation
of heating/air-conditioning systems and heated glasses.
- Operation
of seat-belts/damage to seat-belts.
- Operation
of all window lifts.
- Operation
of in-car entertainment/trip computer/navigation systems.
Ensure details of radio code are passed on to you.
- Operation
of seat adjusters.
- All
glass for cracks/damage/milkyness (de-lamination).
- All
lights, including interior lights, for operation and damage.
- Check
carpets and interior for dampness/damage.
- Operation
of screen wipers and washers, including intermittent function.
First
service after purchasing a second hand 4x4:
-
Strip
down the front knuckles to inspect CVs, wheel bearings and
swivel bearings and then repack with new grease (moly based
for CV, lithium only based for wheel bearings) - be prepared
to replace bearings/CVs on the way - no point putting knackered
ones back in although they can take a hell of a lot of hammering,
even when worn. Also bear in mind dealers don't touch these
during regular services. Ideally you should doo the strip
down, check and repack of the CVs and all wheel bearings
every 20-30k miles - if you do this they should last 100k
miles +.
-
Having
said that I have seen 80s clock up several thousand miles
with no grease in the CVs or wheel bearings, collapsed swivel
bearings, clicking CVs, etc - they are extremely strong
parts.
-
Also,
if you have a 12 valve 80 series with 100,000 miles + on
it I would change out the Big End Bearings. The various
threads around on this recommend changing them every 100,000
miles. Having done some on 80s around the 150,000-200,000
miles mark they have all had quite serious pitting on at
least two sets of bearings. OK it is difficult to know how
long the pitting had been there and how much longer the
engines would have lasted, however you need to bear in mind
when they do go, they go with a bang.
10)
Are there any special requirements or specifics on the car we would
wish to buy?
Good
tyres – pref. two complete spares. Good suspension -
shocks, all bushes, tortion bars, springs/coils etc; reasonable
engine & gear box mountings. Good cooling system –
if the vehicle has a tendancy to overheat then don’t
even look at it. 4wd if you are heading off road / to national
parks.
11)
How long does it minimal take to travel from South Africa (say J'burg)
to Nairobi and by which route?
You
can travel from J’burg to Nairobi in approx 8 days (one
driver doing approx. 700km per day and then staying in decent
accom at night) however I do not recomend this for a novice
"African" driver.
We recently completed this route: Nrb>Arusha (Ngorongoro)>Bagamoyo>Dar>Zanzibar>Dar>Morogoro>Mbeya>Shiwa
Ndangu (Mpika area)>Lusaka>Livingstone/Vic Falls>Bulawayo>Jhb>Durban
and we did it in 21 days. The majority of this is on good
tar roads which make for easy driving at 80/100km/h. This
route followed the great north road out of Lusaka but you
can also take the great east road which will take you by Luwanga
Nat parks (Jungle Junction etc) and into Malawi via Chipata.
12)
How much paperwork is involved in buying a car?
In
Kenya you’ll need a PIN no. which you’ll get in
one morning. You’ll need your passport (plus copies) &
and a local address. In SA I suspect you’ll need some
sort of local ID on top of your passport - pls email me for
further details.
12)a)
Info on getting a Carnet for an SA registered vehicle.
http://www.aa.co.za
AA(carnet
de passage & international drivers licence)
-
issued same day, AA Kyalami
-
R2000.00 fee
-
R500.00 Deposit
-
On returning have to take carnet back, get your deposit back
-
Drivers licences was R110.00 (R35 extra for photos)
13)
Is it true that within the southern part of Africa (up to Tanzania)
you don't need a carnet to cross the border?
Yes,
you’ll just get a TIP at the border (for this you’ll
need the original car papers in your name) – but TZ was
playing with the idea of enforcing a carnet to try and stem
the illegal car trade. Kenya definitely requires a carnet. Ethiopia
officially requires a carnet but Kenyan registered vehicles
can just leave their logbooks at the border.
14)
Is it possible to get visa on the borders of all these countries?
If yes, would you still advise to get these in advance?
Yes
– no need to buy in advance, unless you are Zimbabwean,
esp. if you decide just to transit some countries: transit
visas are less than half the price of normal visas. However
you will need a full TZ visa if you also wish to visit Zanzibar.
15)
What exactly is TIP (Temporary Import Permit?) And how much do these
on average cost?
A
temporary import allows the non-permanent importation of your
vehicle into a country without paying duty. Most countries
will provide TIPs, those that don’t: Kenya, Egypt etc,
therefore require a “Carnet de Passage”.
I think TZ’s TIP was free but most countries charge
around 50 USD.
17)
Are there any other tricky things we should be aware off or prepare
in advance?
Obey
all traffic rules! Do not expose yourself to possible police
corruption especially prevalent on fridays. Carry two warning
tringles, at least one fire extinguisher and always wear your
seatbelt – If a policeman is looking for some money for
the weekend then these are things that I have been asked for.
If you can, carry multiple copies of your International Driving
Permit & licence and do not give it to a police officer
unless specically asked for – always give them the IDP
first.
PS: Never admit your guilty of a speeding offence until
you are sure their equipment is working properly etc.
18)
I have read that the major routes in African countries are all concrete
and are pretty good, is this true?
Main
roads are mainly tar. Off road mainly murram. Some bad stretches
are Nrb>Mombasa; Tanga>Mombasa; Lusaka>Chipata; the
Amboseli road; Narok>Maasai Mara and the Ngorongoro Crater
Rim road.
19)
Are all coutries pretty easy to drive around or are there some of
which you know we will get stuck in sand or mud?
All
countries in East and Sothern Africa have fairly decent primary
road systems. Northern Zambia (off road) has a sticky reputation
as does N.Luangwa NP in and around the rainy season. The road
between Moyale and Isiolo and the whole of West Africa is a
completely different kettle of fish.
20)
How is the safety situation in most countries?
Safety
is mainly good but heightened awareness is required in towns.
Also try never to leave your vehicle unguarded it may not get
stolen but anything of value in it will.
21)
Are National Parks accessible with your own transport or do you
have to hire a car with a driver? Or with your own car, is it possible
to hire just a guide?
All
National Parks are accessible with your own vehicle although
Ngorongoro did require that we picked up a guide we actually
did without. Do not be fooled that a local NP game scout will
know all the best places to see game – they mainly patrol
on foot and therefore are allowed offroad (which you are not)
in the parks. Plus there are disadvantages: with a fully loaded
4x4 often there is no room for anybody else; they often smell
bad and they nearly always carry loaded weapons which they
do not make safe inside your vehicle.
22)
Since we have to pick up some family in Nairobi, do you know any
good place to stay in or around this city?
Jungle
Junction on Amboseli Lane, Lavington is a decent backpackers
place and usually full of overlanders who can give you up to
date advice. Run by Chris – a BMW bike mech.
If you fancy a hotel try the Silver Sands or if you want real
quality try The Fairview.
23)
As we are travelling through Africa and the AA is not around, is
it advisable to bring jerry-cans with fuel? If yes, how many liters?
Depends
on where you are going but I usually carry an extra 20L fuel
and 20L water. In Zimbabwe carry enough fuel to get to the next
border. Of course travelling in remote areas requires better
preparation - for example in some areas of Angola you'll need
to double these amounts.
24)
What minimal equipment do we need?
Getting
Hi-Lift jack jacking points fitted (and of course buying a genuine
Hi-lift) are relatively cheap and really do take the strain
out of tyre changing. A good compressor is very handy (vair
seem ok). You don’t need an electric winch or a massive
bullbar – extra spots and a raised air intake are handy
but not essential. I would never have a raised air intake fitted
if the vehicle I was buying did not already have one.
Basic toolkit would be handy – metric spanners, duck tape
and cable ties are usually essential.
Good quality spare light bulbs for Police shakedowns.
25)
Do we need extra lamps on our car? We do not plan to travel a lot
in the dark.
Travelling
at night is not recommended, however out of necessity (to reach
a lodge that we've booked etc) we often do. Roof lights are
essential for night driving but every bit of light helps especially
at dusk – lots of cows, goats and kids live/play alongside
the roads. Me? I like driving at night: the car engine runs
better due to the cool and traffic is usually less but then
again, I've got a great set of 130W IPF spots on the roof of
my vehicle.
26)
Do we need to bring a long/high-lift jack?
Yes
– but make sure you add the app. Jacking points (about
10,000 K Sh from Fast Eddies in Nairobi)
27)
Anything else you would say: this you definitely have to take?
Buy
a compressor (Vair if you're coming from Europe but if you're
stuck, Truck Air are available in Nairobi and I’ve been
using mine for years – it’s slow but fairly cheap)
Tyre pressure management is essential off road. If you run tubeless
tyres then plugs and a plugging tool are necessary. Even if
you are tubeless carry good quality tubes as a back up.
28)
How safe is camping in the wild? Or would you advise camping grounds?
I
would advise camping sites/ lodge car parks etc. Wild camping
only seems to really work if you are truly “in the middle
of nowhere” as towns folk can be a cause for concern.
29)
How much water do we need to bring along while travelling? And how
easy is it to get good drinking water? Or should we get a water
filter?
Water
is generally available everywhere – a water filter such
a Katadyn is good “just in case” but not essential.
Buy a 20L water butt at Nakumat and get a small hand pump designed
for use with the former. Cheap and effective.
30)
What kind of stove do you advise? On butane or benzine?
Buy
a 2 plate gas stove (or single gas burner) in Nakumatt and change
the regulator if necessary (if necessary in another country),
buy gas at most fuel stations and large supermarkets.
31)
Light, should we bring a 12 volt light (connectable to the car),
gaslamp or oil lamp?
12v
fluorescent lights are the best.
32)
Would you advise a normal tent or a roof tent?
RTTs
are great, but expensive and there are not many RTTs available
in EA, plenty in SA though. Normal tent is A LOT cheaper if
not as convenient. If you put roof bars and a large piece of
plywood on your roof and park under a tree (for hanging a mosi
net) you can get by with sleeping on a thin mattress on the
roof of the car.
Rooftents also require roofracks – good for storing light
items but can easily be overloaded and lead to a roll-over –
this is especially true of people with little experience of
driving fully loaded 4x4’s.
33)
Do you know any good shops in Nairobi where to buy (used) camping
equipment?
Ask
Chris at Jungle Junction, Eddy at Fast Eddies on Ngong Rd, or
buy new from Nakumatt. Extreme Outdoors in the YaYa Centre also
has good, but expensive, imported camping kit but also have
there own cheaper local brand – looks OK.
34)
We (2) are looking preferably for a Defender 110 or Land Cruiser
in a good mechanical condition for a budget of up to 15000 USD.
15000USD
is just about 1million shillings - you can expect a '93/'94
Landcruiser Prado to go for at least 1.5 mill. All other Landcruisers
such as the 75, 76 or 78 series are working cruisers and therefore
build quality is better but they hold their price well - usually
in excess of 2/2.5 million. Same with the 80 series VX's and
GX's - they are expensive to buy in EA. Used LandRovers are
available but tend to be the later electronically managed models
more aimed at the luxury market. Older Defenders and series
LandRovers are available but frankly, after test driving a few,
I wouldn't touch them with a bargepole or unless I was a mechanical
genius.
A
good Mitsubishi Pajero, Toyota Hilux or Isuzu Trooper is more
affordable. It’s always a good idea to give it a full
service/mechanical check before you take it on safari (whatever
the seller says) - this will give good peace of mind plus potential
problems can be identified. I can recommend a decent garages
in Nairobi and Bulawayo. If you have a vehicle budget of 15000USD
then do not buy up to your limit - allow yourself a minimum
of 2000 for contingencies and running repairs (the condition
of EA’s roads is generally fair, however the bad bits
ARE bad and WILL damage your car somewhere or somehow) or extra’s
like a hi-lift jack and jacking points.
35)
Practicality to register the vehicle under my name?
Easily
done with the assistance of the AA in Kenya (see no. 2 for info
on SA) and essential if you want to take the vehicle out of
the country. You’ll need a PIN no. (easy to get) and an
address in Kenya – this is a good reason to join the Kenyan
AA as they can help facillitate this whole process.
36)
We would be coming from the UK, so would it make more sense for
us to buy the car here?
If
you are planning the big trans-Africa thing then yes - it'll
get you used to the foibles of your vehicle and will give you
something to do on those dark winter nights. Vehicles are cheaper
in the UK and are usually in a better condition than Africa,
however if you have the time take a look at buying from Dubai,
Singapore or Japan - these vehicles usually are low mileage
and with some of the extras you will want.
However,
it seems the market has leveled off a bit and you can get decent
4x4s here in the UK. What you want to look for is an older LC80,
GX or VX, now branded the Amazon I think. These vehicles are
near enough perfect overlanders with enough grunt to get you
out of trouble and a sufficiently solid chassis/suspension to
take the battering of Africa's worst roads. Of course this means
these vehicles don't come cheap but they are what you want.
Approaching these are Hilux Surfs/4runners etc - they are a
lot cheaper but a bit more cramped for space - perfect for two
adults though. Of course the choice of vehicle is up to you
and people have done a trans Africa in much less robust vehicles
but this is just a guide of what you should aim for.
Selling
in SA could be difficult: old Landrovers, and other lesser vehicles,
are usually thrashed by the time they get to Cape Town and usually
don't sell well or at all. A good cruiser can sell, problem
is the Duty anybody buying it will have to pay but that is the
same for most countries, however there are plenty of good cruisers
in SA, that is why you may get more for your money elsewhere
.
37)
Is there a particular time of year that would be better or worse,
both for the drive and for selling a car?
If
you are travelling North to South then you'll want to avoid
the Sahara in the summer. In West Africa you'll want to avoid
the rainy season.
38a)
Buying in Africa
NB:
This part is a work in progress:
South
Africa
A
traffic register number is issued to foreign citizens who
are not in possession of a South African identity (ID) document
or foreign ID document, and serves the purpose of an acceptable
identification number used for road traffic transactions.
The traffic register number is required when a foreigner wants
to register a motor vehicle in South Africa.
To
apply for registration of a used vehicle you will need the
following:
•
A duly completed application form (form MVR1A or RLV).
•
Your RSA identity document (if you are a local resident) or
an identity document issued by a foreign country (if you are
a person not permanently resident in the Republic) or a traffic
register number certificate.
•
If the motor vehicle is registered in South Africa, the registration
certificate concerned.
•
If the tare has changed due to any reason, a mass measuring
certificate.
•
If the vehicle has a new engine or if the VIN/chassis number
has changed, a South African Police Service clearance of the
motor vehicle.
•
If required by the registering authority, proof of the right
to be registered as title holder of the motor vehicle concerned.
Such proof may be an invoice, a sales agreement, etc. It is
advised that you phone your nearest call centre or registering
authority to establish whether they accept or require any
other document as proof.
Please
note the following:
In
order to obtain a mass measuring certificate it is advised
that you contact your local registering authority for the
contact details of a facility that offers this service.
A
South African Police Service clearance will only be issued
after your registering authority has issued you with a referral.
After the referral has been issued the registration certificate
of the vehicle has to be presented to the SAPS in order for
the process to be initiated.
The
registering authority will perform an assessment on you application
and you will pay the fees as prescribed by your province
38b)
Selling in Africa
NB:
This part is a work in progress:
South
Africa
A
traffic
register number is issued to foreign citizens who are
not in possession of a South African identity (ID) document
or foreign ID document, and serves the purpose of an acceptable
identification number used for road traffic transactions.
The traffic register number is required when a foreigner wants
to register a motor vehicle in South Africa.
39)
What is it like to drive in urban Africa and in particular Nairobi?
(If you are planning to move to Nairobi read
this)
Found
this piece that epitomizes life/driving in Nairobi from a Kenyan
blogger (http://lostkenyanchick.wordpress.com/2007/10/03/surviving-nairobis-traffic/):
There’s
been a lot in the press recently, both local where people are
furious, and even the international press, where people are
probably just amazed really, about the traffic situation in
Nairobi.
If
you read anyone’s experiences of travel by road in Nairobi,
I doubt you’ll find one of them that doesn’t mention
the unbelievable traffic experience, the shocking state of the
roads and the ridiculous drivers that we have to endure on them
daily!
Sadly,
our country has gone through various degrees of corruption and
one of the offshoots of this state of affairs is that half the
people on the road have probably never taken a driving test
and although they hold licences, these have been bought for
a small price off some dealer in River Road somewhere. Then
there are the hundreds of unroadworthy vehicles that block the
lanes all passing through the traffic police with a quick backhander
or (a favourite with the hundreds of matatu drivers) just slow
down through the road block and throw the money out the window!
This means that all those marvellous vehicles just keep on going
- no brake lights, bald tyres and that’s probably just
for starters.
Finally
we have the roads themselves. Well it turns out that we are
gaily running along on a road system that was put into effect
through a plan approved for Nairobi by the colonials back in
1948. Since then it seems that apart from the widening of a
few roads and one new ‘Processional Way’ (to create
a short cut from State House to town - very useful i might add…)
that has been built in the last one year, we have not built
a single road since independence in 1963.
That’s
good news all round considering the number of new cars estimated
to be put onto Kenyan roads every month is around 5000. You
could basically say ‘We are well and truly stuffed!’
What
this all means for the traffic is that of course you need to
find ever more ingenious ways to get through it.
The
matatus have a great plan. They zoom up the inside on the dirt
on the side of the road where all innocent pedestrians get wildly
hooted at and have to keep jumping into the ditch in order to
survive. Then of course when they get to the junctions and back
to single lane traffic, they just charge into you at full speed
hoping you’ll dive out of the way to save your own car,
which of course you generally do at all costs, … and they
win!
This
daily survival course is played out every morning on our way
to school. I have taken to using a driver as i can’t be
doing with the stress of it all. What amuses me is that if you
dare to take on these matatus (which my driver will as he’s
so much braver than me - and of course won’t have to pay
the bill if he loses the battle!!) the drivers of these vehicles
give you the most filthy looks and then hang out of their windows
and start shouting at you for not allowing them in! ….
We
had a great discussion the other day on what car you should
be driving in order to survive (or not), and what it says about
you. It was summed up as follows:
1.
Range Rover/Land Rover or some other large sturdy 4×4
with the biggest ‘f… off’ bull bar you can
find.
* This says ‘Don’t mess with me. I’m not afraid
to use it! I can hit you harder!’
2. Merc
* This comes with a status tag and will generally gain you some
respect on the road as generally all ‘WaBenzies’
(as those who drive them are known) will not allow you to even
touch the paintwork without calling the cops and making you
waste half your day standing on the side of the road waiting
for them to show up.
3. Toyota Corolla
* Generally only driven by those with a death wish or keen on
a seriously exciting, although sometimes lethal, game of dodgems
of a morning. Matatu drivers have absolutely no shame about
driving one of those straight off the road and into the nearest
ditch, or, if you get caught on the wrong side, straight into
the oncoming traffic. And seeing as almost half the cars on
the road are Toyota corollas - it is incredibly tricky surviving
in one.
So, my advice to anyone about to buy themselves a car in Kenya.
First of all, new is not recommended. If it has a few scratches
on the side before you buy it, so much the better as then you
won’t feel so bad when you have your first ding - because
you will have one no matter how safe a driver you think you
are. It’s not about you darlin’, it’s about
the other mad b………s on the road. For god’s
sake, do not, whatever you do, buy yourself a Corolla as you’ll
be lucky if you last a week without getting side swipped. The
best recommendation is to invest in a whopping great 4×4
- the older the better - and fit the biggest and most solid
bull bar you can find on the front, put your aggressive hat
on and take to the road. - You’ll feel just like ‘Moses’
when the traffic parts ahead of you!
40)
And finally: Buy-Back
Example
vehicle 1995 Toyota Hilux DC (2007 prices):
Vehicle
Initial Purchase: R72,000
Vehicle Buyback, after 2.5 months: R55,000
Cost: R17,000
Camping Equipment Initial Purchase: R10,500
Camping Equipment Buyback: R5,250
Cost: R5,250
5 Page Carnet Initial Purchase R4,500
Carnet Buyback R2,000
Cost: R2,500
Insurance
(R600/month) R1800
Cost: R1800
Total
Initial Outlay: R88,800 (8,880 USD at 10:1
the US:R rate is really low at the moment)
Total
expenditure: R26,550 (2,650 USD) Not inc. food, fuel, servicing
it every 10,000km and paying for running repairs of any kind
after week 1.
NB:
If you require the vehicle returned to base, eg: Nairobi to
Capetown: R 18,500 plus extended rental and insurance: R9,000:
R27,500 (2,750 USD)
41)
When is a good time to go?
43)
From Jeroen van Bergeijk's book: My
Mercedes Is Not for Sale!
Ten
tips on how to sell a car in West Africa:
1.
Buy My Mercedes Is Not for Sale! If everything
goes wrong, you’ll at least have something entertaining
to read.
2.
Spend a few hours on the forum of Sahara Overland.
That should answer most of your practical questions about crossing
the desert by car. Another good source of information are the
German Wüstenschiff (www.wustenschiff.de) and Swiss Desert-info
(www.desert-info.ch).
3.
Your destination dictates the car you should buy. If you’re
going to Mali or Mauritania, you should have a diesel. In Benin,
however, they love gas-powered cars. Whatever you do, don’t
buy an American or a Scandinavian model (unless you’re
going to Nigeria, where they’re crazy about Volvos). French
cars are passé; Japanese, always okay. If you just have
to travel by SUV, Toyota Land Cruisers are far more popular
than Land Rovers. A safe—and I think the best—choice
is a four-cylinder Mercedes 190 D from the late eighties. Recent
four-cylinder 200 Ds also sell well.
4.
But then those Benzes are hard to come by, at least at a reasonable
price. You can pick up an old jalopy for € 1200, but figure
on about € 1750 instead. And you better make up your mind
fast, or someone will beat you to it.
5.
Okay, you’ve bought a car, and now you’re off to
Africa. At the moment (march 2008), there really isn’t
a safe route anymore. If you need these tips and are driving
a passenger car, the so-called Atlantic Route is the best option
– although there is a real concern about Al Qaeda activity
in Mauritania. The Atlantic Route follows the recently completed
Trans-Sahara Highway through Morocco, Western Sahara, Mauritania,
and Senegal. Nowadays, if you want to drive from Holland to
Gambia—and that’s a great destination and a terrific
place to sell your car—you hardly have to leave the blacktop
anymore.
6.
In the border area between Western Sahara and Mauritania, however,
you do have to drive through sand, and there are still land
mines there. Take a guide or hook up with someone who knows
what he’s doing.
7.
The biggest problem – apart from the security issue -
you’ll face is getting into Senegal. Senegal doesn’t
admit any car more than seven years old. You can buy a carnet
de passage, a sort of passport for your car (counterfeit carnets
are sometimes also offered on Sahara Overland), but that makes
for headaches if you want to sell your car. Unless you’re
adept at talking and haggling, you’re probably going to
have to pay a lot for an official escort through Senegal. Then
you’ll drive across the country in a day or two and be
released again at the following border.
8.
Take enough cash: cash machines are extremely rare in West Africa.
The only credit card that’s accepted is Visa.
9.
You’ll have to decide for yourself what all you want to
take. Water is important. And if you can do some of your own
repairs, so much the better, but it’s really not necessary.
There’s always a bush mechanic nearby.
10.
Well, and then you’ve got to unload that moving wreck:
discretely spread the word that your car’s for sale, promise
a commission (and pay it, too) if someone brings you a buyer,
accept only cash and preferably euros. If you bought a good
model, you’ll sell it in a minute; if you show up with
seconds, it’ll take forever. And remember this: the first
offer is usually the best.
44)
Baseline service for a new 4x4 (from Julian Voelcker - ELCO):
OK
for a baseline service where you don't have any history on your
new purchase, I would recommend the following:
-
Strip
down the front knuckles to inspect CVs, wheel bearings and swivel
bearings and then repack with new grease (moly based for CV,
lithium only based for wheel bearings) - be prepared to replace
bearings/CVs on the way - no point putting knackered ones back
in although they can take a hell of a lot of hammering, even
when worn. Also bear in mind dealers don't touch these during
regular services. Ideally you should doo the strip down, check
and repack of the CVs and all wheel bearings every 20-30k miles
- if you do this they should last 100k miles +.
-
Having
said that I have seen 80s clock up several thousand miles with
no grease in the CVs or wheel bearings, collapsed swivel bearings,
clicking CVs, etc - they are extremely strong parts.
-
Also,
if you have a 12 valve 80 series with 100,000 miles + on it
I would change out the Big End Bearings. The various threads
around on this recommend changing them every 100,000 miles.
Having done some on 80s around the 150,000-200,000 miles mark
they have all had quite serious pitting on at least two sets
of bearings. OK it is difficult to know how long the pitting
had been there and how much longer the engines would have lasted,
however you need to bear in mind when they do go, they go with
a bang.
45)
Nairobi for beginners:
Welcome
to Nairobi! The first weeks here are not always easy, but many
people think it is a wonderful place to live. Here
are some of the bureaucratic hurdles you have to overcome
- and tips from people who were successful. Primarily this is
for foriegn journalists, however most work permits follow a
similar procedure.
46)
Ethiopia for beginners:
We
got a visa at the embassy in Nairobi, which required international
drivers license and either carnet
or log book (we were able to use our Kenyan
log book, but needed to leave the original at the border).
We
then drove from Nairobi to Isiolo on the first
day. Isiolo to Marsabit on the second day,
and Marsabit to Moyale on the third day. Reasonably
long days (dawn till dusk), really crap roads, very corrugated,
etc. Got really badly bogged in a sandy flow (up to the door
handles!) in Moyale town, just 10 meters from the gates of the
KWA. Half the town turned out to watch/help.
Border crossing was pretty routine, the eithiopians were reasonably
officious, including attempting to check that the engine numbers
matched, but really no trouble.
They
give you a temporary import permit that got
checked at few checkpoints as we moved north.
47)
West Africa for beginners (the situation in Senegal
may have changed recently):
The
difference between Ghana and Senegal is huge. Senegal no longer
allows vehicles in (permanently) which are more than 5 years
old, and what it DOES allow in, they charge a 100% duty on,
unless you already have paid the right people to have a Senegalese
corporation to avoid the taxes. Bringing a vehicle in through
the Gambia and paying a Coronet to allow use in the WA countries,
this would be smarter. Vehicles already in WA are often badly
beat already, from the roads, etc., Vehicles in Senegal are
way overpriced, owing to the taxes, etc. Even Guinea Conakry
might be a better port to import, and that place is about as
corrupt as anywhere in the world.
There's
one guy I know, Mamadou Sy... I'll have to find his phone number,
assuming it hasn't changed. He has some sort of deal selling
Americans' SUVs on a car lot he owns. If you can't be persuaded
to buy a car in the States and ship it in, then that's the only
other idea I have. What's bought in WA stays in WA, btw. Europe
won't accept WA country's paperwork as legit ownership, so you
can't bring them back out of Africa once they've been registered
in Africa.
Go well,
Enzo,
+44 (0) 776 860 6729 - enzo(at)africa4x4cafe.com
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