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The AFRICA 4X4 CAFE: 4x4 Fundi:

It's not really organised yet, so you'll just have to scroll through cherry picking what you fancy...

1) CARNET (Carnet de Passages et Douane):

Is an internationally recognized Customs document entitling the holder to temporarily import a vehicle, duty free into countries which normally require a deposit against import charges. The Carnet has up to 25 pages and needs to be stamped on entry and exit. You can go into a country more than once but you need to go through the stamping procedure again. The RAC or AA are responsible for the Carnet so you need to pay them or provide security via either a bank guarantee, an insurance indemnity with RL Davison or a cash deposit. The indemnity is 10% of the Carnet. 50% is refundable on safe completion of document. It takes minimum 1 week to issue. The cost depends on where you are going and rates of custom duty and tax in each country. Custom rates are a percentage of the vehicle so most of Africa is 200% of the vehicle value but for Egypt it is 500%. For very helpful and friendly advice contact Paul Gowen or go to the RAC website Carnet page.

The Carnet is a booklet with either 10 or 25 pages, each page just like the other. Each page has three separate parts:

Your copy (top part) - at each border post you have to ensure that upon entering you must get the copy stamped as well as exiting the country. Once you return home, you have to send to booklet back with each copy containing an import stamp and export stamp.
The import copy (bottom part) - At the point of entry, the custom officer will tear this part off and send it to a centralised office (sometimes you will wonder whether they actually do it if you see the state of the border crossing office). S/he will stamp it and it is your responsibility to ensure that they stamp it, stamp your copy and take their copy.

The export copy - This part is in the middle of each page, just below your copy. Once you leave the country, the officer at the departure side of the border control post will stamp this part as well as your copy and tear the export copy out and it is their duty to send it back to this centralised office. Once more it is your responsibility to ensure they stamp your copy and tear out the export copy. What they do with theirs is not your concern, because you have your copy with both stamps. If a dispute arises, then you will have the proof. No need to tell you therefore that this document is even more important and valuable than your passport.

The following quotation came from the RAC in 2003:

Approx. value: 5000GBP25 page carnet 75.00 stg (member) or 90.00 stg (non-member)Security required 200% of vehicle value. Which means either a full cash deposit or bank guarantee for the sum of 10,000 stg or an insurance premium which will be 10% of the security figure e.g. 1,000 plus 5% ins. premium tax of 50.00 stg.

50% of this is refunded by the brokers on return of the correctly discharged carnet to RAC.

Total: GBP 1000 + 90 + 50 = 1140

 

2) TIP (Temporary Import Permit):

If you don't have a Carnet de Passage then when you pass into another country, customs will issue you with a TIP - Temporary Import Permit - this allows you to bring your vehicle into a country without paying a huge deposit (in case you sell the car and bugger off without paying duty). You'll buy it for about 50USD and it'll last 1, 3 or 6 months months usually so this is you "signing in" your vehicle. Sometimes there is a bit of paper to put in the window - sometimes not - just hang onto the receipt. When you leave the country you'll "sign out" and "sign in" at the next customs office. No problem really.

 

3) COMESA Yellow Card (International 3rd Party Insurance):

The only insurance that is legally required in most African countries is 3rd party, but if you pay 50USD at every border for it, your costs will start to dramatically mount up, so an easier/cheaper option is to buy the COMESA yellow card insurance. The Comesa Yellow Card (CYC) is an international 3rd party policy so you no longer need to buy 3rd party insurance at the border of any member country. It is quite often asked for by name by various African police forces and so there is no quibbling over its validity.

NB: The CYC is valid in: ANG; BOT; BUR; DRC; DJI; EGT; ERI; ETH; KEN; LES; MAL; MOZ; NAM; RSA; RWA; SOM; SUD; SWA; TAN; UGA; ZAM; ZIM.

If you are starting from SA you can’t buy it in SA, you’ll have to buy it in Zim or Zam (and maybe in Malawi etc) as the CYC is not valid in the country in which you buy it. Therefore you will have to buy LOCAL 3rd party insurance at the border first – usually for the length of time that you’ll be travelling – then you’ll go to any insurance broker in the next major town and buy the CYC as an EXTENSION to your existing local 3rd party insurance policy.

I buy mine at Jupiter Insurance in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe or through the AA in Kenya.

My only contact for information though is in Kenya: Ring the AA in Nairobi - contact me for details - tell them how long you want it to last and when you want it to start, no. of people travelling etc, and they'll advise you.

 

4) IDP (International Driving Permit):

An International Driving Permit (IDP) allows you to drive a private motor vehicle overseas when accompanied by a valid UK driving licence. IDPs are valid for 12 months from the date of issue. There are two IDPs available, a 1926 and a 1949. Most countries require a 1949 Convention IDP but for certain African countries, ie: Burundi & Somalia, a 1926 Convention IDP is necessary, but, even if you are not travelling to either of these countries, get both.

Both 1949 and 1926 Convention IDPs can be issued to people aged 18 and over who hold a valid full UK (England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland) driving licence, or can obtain such licences on the basis of pass certificates (within the last two years). IDPs cannot be issued to holders of UK provisional licences without the pass certificates.

When a policeman asks for your driving licence then give them one of these - do not give them your actual licence unless specifically asked for - they never do. In Kenya you are legally required to hold an IDP otherwise you could be legally liable for a fine - I don't know which other countries require the IDP but you do not want to lay yourself open to extortion/bribery.

In case the policeman wants a bribe and is therefore hanging onto your IDP - you can safely drive away and leave him to rot in hell. You can also get multiple IDP's - in the three months before you leave: buy two in month three, two in month two and two just before you depart - that gives you six "get out of jail free" cards.

Also "lose" your actual licence before you leave - 2 or 3 times - this gives you plenty of spares.

NB: You do not need an IDP to drive in SA (however rental companies may have their own requirements):

The NATIONAL ROAD TRAFFIC REGULATIONS, 1999 for the National Road Traffic Act, 1996 (Act No. 93 of 1996) says:

"110. (1) Subject to subregulation (3), a driving licence referred to in section 23(1)(a) of the Act, issued while the holder of it was not permanently or ordinarily resident in the Republic, shall, for the period for, and subject to the conditions under which it was issued, be deemed to be a valid licence for the purposes of Chapter IV of the Act, if—
(a) ((i) the licence has been issued in an official language of the Republic; or
(ii) a certificate of authenticity or validity relating to the licence issued in an official language of the Republic by a competent authority, or a translation of that licence in such official language, is attached to it; and
(b) such licence contains or has attached to it, a photograph and the signature of the licence holder."

So if your driver's licence has your photo, and it is in one of South Africa's 11 official languages (one of which is English), then that's OK. Even if it was in (say) German, then the holder could carry a translation.

The AFRICA 4X4 CAFE - genuine questions asked by potential overlanders:

 

1) What is the better place to buy? Kenya or South Africa?

SA vehicle values SA vehicle value calculator

Both countries have a relatively expensive 2nd hand car markets - south africa more so. Although I have not personaly bought in SA, I would advise that you buy in Kenya. I say this because you can enter SA with a Kenyan reg’d vehicle (without a carnet de passage) but not the other way round: Kenya definitely requires a Carnet for all foreign vehicles. Not having to pay for a carnet is a significant financial advantage – you can enter all countries, south of Kenya, on a TIP and you can also visit Ethiopia by lodging your Vehicle Log Book at the border. However having a Carnet de Passage is a significant logistical advantage - it all comes down to money in the end - if you can afford it get one, if you cannot you can do without it just makes border crossings a bit more hassle.

SA may have the better range of choices, especially regarding overlanding kit, but for short regional trips you can buy a reasonable vehicle in Kenya.

 

2) Are there any problems for a foreigner in buying a car (in either SA or Kenya)?

No problems in Kenya:

To transfer ownership of the vehicle, which results in your name being added to log book, requires the lodging of a transfer form at Times Tower. The transfer form is signed by both the seller and the buyer, and needs to be accompanied by copies of both the buyer’s and seller’s PIN certificates, and the vehicle log book. Take your ID and local address to Times Tower and queue for your PIN no. The rest can be done for you by the Mary Githinji at the AA in The Sarit Centre.

South Africa:

Complete an application form at your nearest traffic office. Bring the following documents:

  • Identity Document
  • Proof of ownership of the vehicle
  • Roadworthy certificate (if the vehicle is used).
  • A traffic register number (TRN) is issued to foreign citizens who are not in possession of a South African Identity Document and serves the purpose of an acceptable identification number used for road traffic transactions.

Steps to get a TRN:

  • Visit your nearest traffic office
  • Complete form ANR: Application and Notice in Respect of Traffic Register Number.
  • The TRN can be issued on the spot: All one needs is ID/Passport certified, photos, road worthy certificate for the vehicle being bought and an address in SA.
  • NB: "I was able to get my TRN with 2 photos, proof of address, and a notarized copy of the passport. " So maybe the RC isn't needed.

 

When registering the vehicle you will need the original of the current registration certificate as well as the transfer document completed and signed by both the transferor and the transferee. This form is available at any vehicle registration office.

NB: Registration must be accompanied by a new Road Worthiness Certificate. Get this before you part with the cash - it could throw up some mechanical problems that you may be able to use to bargain the price down.

 

3) How long does it take to become the owner?

You can take possession of the vehicle straight away, but in Kenya it may take up to 2 weeks for the appropriate paperwork to be completed so that you can take the vehicle out of the country.

 

4) What fuel do you advise? petrol or diesel? And what's the average price of these in Southeast Africa? And how much range should we minimal have with a car?

Diesel is preferred for long distance overlanding but either fuel will do as long as you don’t start fording too many rivers. Average price is 1 - 1.2 USD/L. Full tank plus at least 1, preferably 2 in Zimbabwe, 20L jerrycans of fuel.

 

5) What brand would you advise?

Toyota's are very strong & dependable and therefore keep their value. Only buy a LandRover if you are a good mechanic and/or the vehicle is still in good condition - preferably with 200 or 300 TDi engines. In secondhand vehicles take a particular look at other brands: Mitsubishi Pajero, Isuzu Trooper and Hilux Surf as these are affordable 4x4 vehicles.

 

6) What's the minimum price for a decent car?

You can get a basic but decent 4x4 for 7000 – 10000 USD. At this end of the market (unless I know the vehicle’s history) I never even start talking about money until I have had the vehicle given a thorough mechanical check by a trusted garage/mechanic, find out how much will be required to spend on the vehicle to get it roadworthy and then use that info to bargain the price down.

An Australian client of mine bought an older Pajero for 7000USD, toured Kenya, Uganda and Ethiopia before selling their vehicle for a good price in Moyale, North Kenya. Another client paid 10,000USD for a Toyota Surf that toured Kenya plus Tanzania and Malawi so the message is that you do not need a top of the range 4x4 to get a top of the range experience. However, vehicles are double the price that you'd pay for in the UK.

 

7) How much will it (a trans africa trip) cost?

This guy did it over 8 months, 43,000km, from Estonia to Namibia, it cost hime around 10,000 Euro in 2007.

 

8) Should we buy from a private person or a car company?

I have heard nothing good about buying from car dealers in Nairobi and have bought all my vehicles privately – AFTER a thorough mechanical check.

NB: Make particularly sure that the VIN/Engine no.s on the vehicle correspond to those on the paperwork.

 

9) Is there any form of independent technical inspection, so we can have the car checked before we buy it?

The AA can give you a valuation but I prefer a full mechanical inspection from a trusted garage/mechanic. Pick and choose from these guidelines if you want peace of mind:

  • Things to ask on the phone:
  • What engine does it have?
  • Is it Automatic or Manual transmission?
  • What year model is it?
  • Is it constant 4wd or 2H/4H/4L selectable?
  • Are there any panel damages or mechanical/electrical issues?
  • Has it ever been in an accident?
  • Were you the original owner and does it have logbooks and service history?
  • How much life is left in the tyres?
  • How long has it been on the market?
  • What is the current mileage (and is this Miles or Kilometres)?
  • Is there any rust?
  • Things to check at a test drive:
  • VERY IMPORTANT: Check that the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) recorded on page one of the Car Inspection Report is identical to the number recorded on the registration document (V5).
  • VERY IMPORTANT: Check when next cam-belt change is due.
  • Rust around water pump - check impeller blades
  • Thermostat - potential overheating
  • Full steering lock and listen for clunk (steering stops).
  • Check all 4WD transmission operations.
  • Check for smoky engine.
  • Check for rattly engine.
  • Check service record for completeness, including recorded mileage at last service.
  • Check MOT certificate (UK only).
  • Check that the cooling fan switch is working OK - i.e. that the cooling fan comes on automatically when hot.
  • Check spare wheel, tyre and tools. If applicable, check if key for locking wheel nuts is present.
  • Check radiator for stains or leaks.
  • Check rear springs for butt sag.
  • Check all electrics especially the electric back window if present.
  • Check glowplugs dash light.
  • Check tailgate window inc heating element.
  • Check for window rattles and operation.
  • Check for leaks in sunroof
  • Check condition of driveshaft boots - scored? holed?
  • Check brake discs for scoring and squeaks.
  • Check for any oil leaks.
  • Check under/behind chrome bumpers for rust (there almost certainly will be some).
  • Check bodywork for corrosion, dents and scratches.
  • Operation and fit/alignment of doors/bonnet/boot-lid/tailgate.
  • Operation of sunroof (if present).
  • Operation of all locks, including child locks in the rear doors.
  • Operation of heating/air-conditioning systems and heated glasses.
  • Operation of seat-belts/damage to seat-belts.
  • Operation of all window lifts.
  • Operation of in-car entertainment/trip computer/navigation systems. Ensure details of radio code are passed on to you.
  • Operation of seat adjusters.
  • All glass for cracks/damage/milkyness (de-lamination).
  • All lights, including interior lights, for operation and damage.
  • Check carpets and interior for dampness/damage.
  • Operation of screen wipers and washers, including intermittent function.

See #44 for servicing guidelines.

10) Are there any special requirements or specifics on the car we would wish to buy?

Good tyres – pref. two complete spares. Good suspension - shocks, all bushes, tortion bars, springs/coils etc; reasonable engine & gear box mountings. Good cooling system – if the vehicle has a tendancy to overheat then don’t even look at it. 4wd if you are heading off road / to national parks.

 

11) How long does it minimal take to travel from South Africa (say J'burg) to Nairobi and by which route?

You can travel from J’burg to Nairobi in approx 8 days (one driver doing approx. 700km per day and then staying in decent accom at night) however I do not recomend this for a novice "African" driver.

We recently completed this route: Nrb>Arusha (Ngorongoro)>Bagamoyo>Dar>Zanzibar>Dar>Morogoro>Mbeya>Shiwa Ndangu (Mpika area)>Lusaka>Livingstone/Vic Falls>Bulawayo>Jhb>Durban and we did it in 21 days. The majority of this is on good tar roads which make for easy driving at 80/100km/h. This route followed the great north road out of Lusaka but you can also take the great east road which will take you by Luwanga Nat parks (Jungle Junction etc) and into Malawi via Chipata.

 

12) How much paperwork is involved in buying a car?

In Kenya you’ll need a PIN no. which you’ll get in one morning. You’ll need your passport (plus copies) & and a local address. In SA you'll need a TRN - see #2.

 

12)a) Info on getting a Carnet for an SA registered vehicle.

http://www.aa.co.za

 

AA (carnet de passage & international drivers licence)

- issued same day, AA Kyalami

- R2000.00 fee

- R500.00 Deposit

- On returning have to take carnet back, get your deposit back

- Drivers licences was R110.00 (R35 extra for photos)

13) Is it true that within the southern part of Africa (up to Tanzania) you don't need a carnet to cross the border?

Yes, you’ll just get a TIP at the border (for this you’ll need the original car papers in your name) – but TZ was playing with the idea of enforcing a carnet to try and stem the illegal car trade. Kenya definitely requires a carnet. Ethiopia officially requires a carnet but Kenyan registered vehicles can just leave their logbooks at the border.

 

14) Is it possible to get visa on the borders of all these countries? If yes, would you still advise to get these in advance?

Yes – no need to buy in advance, unless you are Zimbabwean, esp. if you decide just to transit some countries: transit visas are less than half the price of normal visas. However you will need a full TZ visa if you also wish to visit Zanzibar.

 

15) What exactly is TIP (Temporary Import Permit?) And how much do these on average cost?

A temporary import allows the non-permanent importation of your vehicle into a country without paying duty. Most countries will provide TIPs, those that don’t: Kenya, Egypt etc, therefore require a “Carnet de Passage”.

I think TZ’s TIP was free but most countries charge around 50 USD. See #2 in the first section.

 

17) Are there any other tricky things we should be aware off or prepare in advance?

Obey all traffic rules! Do not expose yourself to possible police corruption especially prevalent on fridays. Carry two warning tringles, at least one fire extinguisher and always wear your seatbelt – If a policeman is looking for some money for the weekend then these are things that I have been asked for. If you can, carry multiple copies of your International Driving Permit & licence and do not give it to a police officer unless specically asked for – always give them the IDP first.

PS: Never admit your guilty of a speeding offence until you are sure their equipment is working properly etc.

 

18) I have read that the major routes in African countries are all concrete and are pretty good, is this true?

Main roads are mainly tar. Off road mainly murram. Some bad stretches are Nrb>Mombasa; Tanga>Mombasa; Lusaka>Chipata; the Amboseli road; Narok>Maasai Mara and the Ngorongoro Crater Rim road.

 

19) Are all coutries pretty easy to drive around or are there some of which you know we will get stuck in sand or mud?

All countries in East and Sothern Africa have fairly decent primary road systems. Northern Zambia (off road) has a sticky reputation as does N.Luangwa NP in and around the rainy season. The road between Moyale and Isiolo and the whole of West Africa is a completely different kettle of fish.

 

20) How is the safety situation in most countries?

Safety is mainly good but heightened awareness is required in towns. Also try never to leave your vehicle unguarded it may not get stolen but anything of value in it will.

 

21) Are National Parks accessible with your own transport or do you have to hire a car with a driver? Or with your own car, is it possible to hire just a guide?

All National Parks are accessible with your own vehicle although Ngorongoro did require that we picked up a guide we actually did without. Do not be fooled that a local NP game scout will know all the best places to see game – they mainly patrol on foot and therefore are allowed offroad (which you are not) in the parks. Plus there are disadvantages: with a fully loaded 4x4 often there is no room for anybody else; they often smell bad and they nearly always carry loaded weapons which they do not make safe inside your vehicle.

 

22) Since we have to pick up some family in Nairobi, do you know any good place to stay in or around this city?

Jungle Junction on Amboseli Lane, Lavington is a decent backpackers place and usually full of overlanders who can give you up to date advice. Run by Chris – a BMW bike mech.
If you fancy a hotel try the Silver Sands or if you want real quality try The Fairview.

 

23) As we are travelling through Africa and the AA is not around, is it advisable to bring jerry-cans with fuel? If yes, how many liters?

Depends on where you are going but I usually carry an extra 20L fuel and 20L water. In Zimbabwe carry enough fuel to get to the next border. Of course travelling in remote areas requires better preparation - for example in some areas of Angola you'll need to double these amounts.

 

24) What minimal equipment do we need?

Getting Hi-Lift jack jacking points fitted (and of course buying a genuine Hi-lift) are relatively cheap and really do take the strain out of tyre changing. A good compressor is very handy (vair seem ok). You don’t need an electric winch or a massive bullbar – extra spots and a raised air intake are handy but not essential. I would never have a raised air intake fitted if the vehicle I was buying did not already have one.
Basic toolkit would be handy – metric spanners, duck tape and cable ties are usually essential.
Good quality spare light bulbs for Police shakedowns.

 

25) Do we need extra lamps on our car? We do not plan to travel a lot in the dark.

Travelling at night is not recommended, however out of necessity (to reach a lodge that we've booked etc) we often do. Roof lights are essential for night driving but every bit of light helps especially at dusk – lots of cows, goats and kids live/play alongside the roads. Me? I like driving at night: the car engine runs better due to the cool and traffic is usually less but then again, I've got a great set of 130W IPF spots on the roof of my vehicle.

 

26) Do we need to bring a long/high-lift jack?

Yes – but make sure you add the app. Jacking points (about 10,000 K Sh from Fast Eddies in Nairobi)

 

27) Anything else you would say: this you definitely have to take?

Buy a compressor (Vair if you're coming from Europe but if you're stuck, Truck Air are available in Nairobi and I’ve been using mine for years – it’s slow but fairly cheap) Tyre pressure management is essential off road. If you run tubeless tyres then plugs and a plugging tool are necessary. Even if you are tubeless carry good quality tubes as a back up.

 

28) How safe is camping in the wild? Or would you advise camping grounds?

I would advise camping sites/ lodge car parks etc. Wild camping only seems to really work if you are truly “in the middle of nowhere” as towns folk can be a cause for concern.

 

29) How much water do we need to bring along while travelling? And how easy is it to get good drinking water? Or should we get a water filter?

Water is generally available everywhere – a water filter such a Katadyn is good “just in case” but not essential. Buy a 20L water butt at Nakumat and get a small hand pump designed for use with the former. Cheap and effective.

 

30) What kind of stove do you advise? On butane or benzine?

Buy a 2 plate gas stove (or single gas burner) in Nakumatt and change the regulator if necessary (if necessary in another country), buy gas at most fuel stations and large supermarkets.

 

31) Light, should we bring a 12 volt light (connectable to the car), gaslamp or oil lamp?

12v fluorescent lights are the best.

 

32) Would you advise a normal tent or a roof tent?

RTTs are great, but expensive and there are not many RTTs available in EA, plenty in SA though. Normal tent is A LOT cheaper if not as convenient. If you put roof bars and a large piece of plywood on your roof and park under a tree (for hanging a mosi net) you can get by with sleeping on a thin mattress on the roof of the car.

Rooftents also require roofracks – good for storing light items but can easily be overloaded and lead to a roll-over – this is especially true of people with little experience of driving fully loaded 4x4’s.

 

33) Do you know any good shops in Nairobi where to buy (used) camping equipment?

Ask Chris at Jungle Junction, Eddy at Fast Eddies on Ngong Rd, or buy new from Nakumatt. Extreme Outdoors in the YaYa Centre also has good, but expensive, imported camping kit but also have there own cheaper local brand – looks OK.

 

34) We (2) are looking preferably for a Defender 110 or Land Cruiser in a good mechanical condition for a budget of up to 15000 USD.

15000USD is just about 1million shillings - you can expect a '93/'94 Landcruiser Prado to go for at least 1.5 mill. All other Landcruisers such as the 75, 76 or 78 series are working cruisers and therefore build quality is better but they hold their price well - usually in excess of 2/2.5 million. Same with the 80 series VX's and GX's - they are expensive to buy in EA. Used LandRovers are available but tend to be the later electronically managed models more aimed at the luxury market. Older Defenders and series LandRovers are available but frankly, after test driving a few, I wouldn't touch them with a bargepole or unless I was a mechanical genius.

A good Mitsubishi Pajero, Toyota Hilux or Isuzu Trooper is more affordable. It’s always a good idea to give it a full service/mechanical check before you take it on safari (whatever the seller says) - this will give good peace of mind plus potential problems can be identified. I can recommend a decent garages in Nairobi and Bulawayo. If you have a vehicle budget of 15000USD then do not buy up to your limit - allow yourself a minimum of 2000 for contingencies and running repairs (the condition of EA’s roads is generally fair, however the bad bits ARE bad and WILL damage your car somewhere or somehow) or extra’s like a hi-lift jack and jacking points.

 

35) Practicality to register the vehicle under my name?

Easily done with the assistance of the AA in Kenya (see no. 2 for info on SA) and essential if you want to take the vehicle out of the country. You’ll need a PIN no. (easy to get) and an address in Kenya – this is a good reason to join the Kenyan AA as they can help facillitate this whole process.

 

36) We would be coming from the UK, so would it make more sense for us to buy the car here?

If you are planning the big trans-Africa thing then yes - it'll get you used to the foibles of your vehicle and will give you something to do on those dark winter nights. Vehicles are cheaper in the UK and are usually in a better condition than Africa, however if you have the time take a look at buying from Dubai, Singapore or Japan - these vehicles usually are low mileage and with some of the extras you will want.

However, it seems the market has leveled off a bit and you can get decent 4x4s here in the UK. What you want to look for is an older LC80, GX or VX, now branded the Amazon I think. These vehicles are near enough perfect overlanders with enough grunt to get you out of trouble and a sufficiently solid chassis/suspension to take the battering of Africa's worst roads. Of course this means these vehicles don't come cheap but they are what you want. Approaching these are Hilux Surfs/4runners etc - they are a lot cheaper but a bit more cramped for space - perfect for two adults though. Of course the choice of vehicle is up to you and people have done a trans Africa in much less robust vehicles but this is just a guide of what you should aim for.

Selling in SA could be difficult: old Landrovers, and other lesser vehicles, are usually thrashed by the time they get to Cape Town and usually don't sell well or at all. A good cruiser can sell, problem is the Duty anybody buying it will have to pay but that is the same for most countries, however there are plenty of good cruisers in SA, that is why you may get more for your money elsewhere .

37) Is there a particular time of year that would be better or worse, both for the drive and for selling a car?

If you are travelling North to South then you'll want to avoid the Sahara in the summer. In West Africa you'll want to avoid the rainy season.

38a) Buying in Africa

NB: See

South Africa

A traffic register number is issued to foreign citizens who are not in possession of a South African identity (ID) document or foreign ID document, and serves the purpose of an acceptable identification number used for road traffic transactions. The traffic register number is required when a foreigner wants to register a motor vehicle in South Africa.

To apply for registration of a used vehicle you will need the following:

• A duly completed application form (form MVR1A or RLV).

• Your RSA identity document (if you are a local resident) or an identity document issued by a foreign country (if you are a person not permanently resident in the Republic) or a traffic register number certificate.

• If the motor vehicle is registered in South Africa, the registration certificate concerned.

• If the tare has changed due to any reason, a mass measuring certificate.

• If the vehicle has a new engine or if the VIN/chassis number has changed, a South African Police Service clearance of the motor vehicle.

• If required by the registering authority, proof of the right to be registered as title holder of the motor vehicle concerned. Such proof may be an invoice, a sales agreement, etc. It is advised that you phone your nearest call centre or registering authority to establish whether they accept or require any other document as proof.

Please note the following:

In order to obtain a mass measuring certificate it is advised that you contact your local registering authority for the contact details of a facility that offers this service.

A South African Police Service clearance will only be issued after your registering authority has issued you with a referral. After the referral has been issued the registration certificate of the vehicle has to be presented to the SAPS in order for the process to be initiated.

The registering authority will perform an assessment on you application and you will pay the fees as prescribed by your province

38b) Selling in Africa

See #2. for advice on buying.

No real problems selling anything in Africa given a little patience. However South Africans do have problems receiving bank payments - they have a very tight tax department.

 

39) What is it like to drive in urban Africa and in particular Nairobi? (If you are planning to move to Nairobi read this)

Found this piece that epitomizes life/driving in Nairobi from a Kenyan blogger (http://lostkenyanchick.wordpress.com/2007/10/03/surviving-nairobis-traffic/):

There’s been a lot in the press recently, both local where people are furious, and even the international press, where people are probably just amazed really, about the traffic situation in Nairobi.

If you read anyone’s experiences of travel by road in Nairobi, I doubt you’ll find one of them that doesn’t mention the unbelievable traffic experience, the shocking state of the roads and the ridiculous drivers that we have to endure on them daily!

Sadly, our country has gone through various degrees of corruption and one of the offshoots of this state of affairs is that half the people on the road have probably never taken a driving test and although they hold licences, these have been bought for a small price off some dealer in River Road somewhere. Then there are the hundreds of unroadworthy vehicles that block the lanes all passing through the traffic police with a quick backhander or (a favourite with the hundreds of matatu drivers) just slow down through the road block and throw the money out the window! This means that all those marvellous vehicles just keep on going - no brake lights, bald tyres and that’s probably just for starters.

Finally we have the roads themselves. Well it turns out that we are gaily running along on a road system that was put into effect through a plan approved for Nairobi by the colonials back in 1948. Since then it seems that apart from the widening of a few roads and one new ‘Processional Way’ (to create a short cut from State House to town - very useful i might add…) that has been built in the last one year, we have not built a single road since independence in 1963.

That’s good news all round considering the number of new cars estimated to be put onto Kenyan roads every month is around 5000. You could basically say ‘We are well and truly stuffed!’

What this all means for the traffic is that of course you need to find ever more ingenious ways to get through it.

The matatus have a great plan. They zoom up the inside on the dirt on the side of the road where all innocent pedestrians get wildly hooted at and have to keep jumping into the ditch in order to survive. Then of course when they get to the junctions and back to single lane traffic, they just charge into you at full speed hoping you’ll dive out of the way to save your own car, which of course you generally do at all costs, … and they win!

This daily survival course is played out every morning on our way to school. I have taken to using a driver as i can’t be doing with the stress of it all. What amuses me is that if you dare to take on these matatus (which my driver will as he’s so much braver than me - and of course won’t have to pay the bill if he loses the battle!!) the drivers of these vehicles give you the most filthy looks and then hang out of their windows and start shouting at you for not allowing them in! ….

We had a great discussion the other day on what car you should be driving in order to survive (or not), and what it says about you. It was summed up as follows:

1. Range Rover/Land Rover or some other large sturdy 4×4 with the biggest ‘f… off’ bull bar you can find.

* This says ‘Don’t mess with me. I’m not afraid to use it! I can hit you harder!’


2. Merc

* This comes with a status tag and will generally gain you some respect on the road as generally all ‘WaBenzies’ (as those who drive them are known) will not allow you to even touch the paintwork without calling the cops and making you waste half your day standing on the side of the road waiting for them to show up.


3. Toyota Corolla

* Generally only driven by those with a death wish or keen on a seriously exciting, although sometimes lethal, game of dodgems of a morning. Matatu drivers have absolutely no shame about driving one of those straight off the road and into the nearest ditch, or, if you get caught on the wrong side, straight into the oncoming traffic. And seeing as almost half the cars on the road are Toyota corollas - it is incredibly tricky surviving in one.


So, my advice to anyone about to buy themselves a car in Kenya. First of all, new is not recommended. If it has a few scratches on the side before you buy it, so much the better as then you won’t feel so bad when you have your first ding - because you will have one no matter how safe a driver you think you are. It’s not about you darlin’, it’s about the other mad b………s on the road. For god’s sake, do not, whatever you do, buy yourself a Corolla as you’ll be lucky if you last a week without getting side swipped. The best recommendation is to invest in a whopping great 4×4 - the older the better - and fit the biggest and most solid bull bar you can find on the front, put your aggressive hat on and take to the road. - You’ll feel just like ‘Moses’ when the traffic parts ahead of you!

 

40) Buy-Back - not a good idea, but if you are pushed for time be aware:

Example vehicle 1995 Toyota Hilux DC (2007 prices):

Vehicle Initial Purchase: R72,000
Vehicle Buyback, after 2.5 months: R55,000
Cost: R17,000

Camping Equipment Initial Purchase: R10,500
Camping Equipment Buyback: R5,250
Cost: R5,250

5 Page Carnet Initial Purchase R4,500
Carnet Buyback R2,000
Cost: R2,500

Insurance (R600/month) R1800
Cost: R1800

Total Initial Outlay: R88,800 (8,880 USD at 10:1 the US:R rate is really low at the moment)

Total expenditure: R26,550 (2,650 USD) Not inc. food, fuel, servicing it every 10,000km and paying for running repairs of any kind after week 1.

NB: If you require the vehicle returned to base, eg: Nairobi to Capetown: R 18,500 plus extended rental and insurance: R9,000: R27,500 (2,750 USD)

 

41) When is a good time to go?

 

 

43) Ten tips on how to sell a car in West Africa:

From Jeroen van Bergeijk's book: My Mercedes Is Not for Sale!

1. Buy My Mercedes Is Not for Sale! If everything goes wrong, you’ll at least have something entertaining to read.

2. Spend a few hours on the forum of Sahara Overland. That should answer most of your practical questions about crossing the desert by car. Another good source of information are the German Wüstenschiff (www.wustenschiff.de) and Swiss Desert-info (www.desert-info.ch).

3. Your destination dictates the car you should buy. If you’re going to Mali or Mauritania, you should have a diesel. In Benin, however, they love gas-powered cars. Whatever you do, don’t buy an American or a Scandinavian model (unless you’re going to Nigeria, where they’re crazy about Volvos). French cars are passé; Japanese, always okay. If you just have to travel by SUV, Toyota Land Cruisers are far more popular than Land Rovers. A safe—and I think the best—choice is a four-cylinder Mercedes 190 D from the late eighties. Recent four-cylinder 200 Ds also sell well.

4. But then those Benzes are hard to come by, at least at a reasonable price. You can pick up an old jalopy for € 1200, but figure on about € 1750 instead. And you better make up your mind fast, or someone will beat you to it.

5. Okay, you’ve bought a car, and now you’re off to Africa. At the moment (march 2008), there really isn’t a safe route anymore. If you need these tips and are driving a passenger car, the so-called Atlantic Route is the best option – although there is a real concern about Al Qaeda activity in Mauritania. The Atlantic Route follows the recently completed Trans-Sahara Highway through Morocco, Western Sahara, Mauritania, and Senegal. Nowadays, if you want to drive from Holland to Gambia—and that’s a great destination and a terrific place to sell your car—you hardly have to leave the blacktop anymore.

6. In the border area between Western Sahara and Mauritania, however, you do have to drive through sand, and there are still land mines there. Take a guide or hook up with someone who knows what he’s doing.

7. The biggest problem – apart from the security issue - you’ll face is getting into Senegal. Senegal doesn’t admit any car more than seven years old. You can buy a carnet de passage, a sort of passport for your car (counterfeit carnets are sometimes also offered on Sahara Overland), but that makes for headaches if you want to sell your car. Unless you’re adept at talking and haggling, you’re probably going to have to pay a lot for an official escort through Senegal. Then you’ll drive across the country in a day or two and be released again at the following border.

8. Take enough cash: cash machines are extremely rare in West Africa. The only credit card that’s accepted is Visa.

9. You’ll have to decide for yourself what all you want to take. Water is important. And if you can do some of your own repairs, so much the better, but it’s really not necessary. There’s always a bush mechanic nearby.

10. Well, and then you’ve got to unload that moving wreck: discretely spread the word that your car’s for sale, promise a commission (and pay it, too) if someone brings you a buyer, accept only cash and preferably euros. If you bought a good model, you’ll sell it in a minute; if you show up with seconds, it’ll take forever. And remember this: the first offer is usually the best.

 

44) Baseline service for a new 4x4 (from Julian Voelcker - ELCO):

OK for a baseline service where you don't have any history on your new purchase, I would recommend the following:
  • Change the engine oil and filter.
  • Change air filter and fuel filter.
  • If an auto drain as much gearboox oil and replenish with what you managed to drain out - usually 4-7 litres
  • If a manual just change the oil.
  • Strip down the front knuckles to inspect CVs, wheel bearings and swivel bearings and then repack with new grease (moly based for CV, lithium only based for wheel bearings) - be prepared to replace bearings/CVs on the way - no point putting knackered ones back in although they can take a hell of a lot of hammering, even when worn. Also bear in mind dealers don't touch these during regular services. Ideally you should doo the strip down, check and repack of the CVs and all wheel bearings every 20-30k miles - if you do this they should last 100k miles +.
  • Also strip down the rear wheel bearings and repack as above. Change the diff oils during the above.
  • Probably change the brake pads at the same time - well check them at the same time as above - you can also check the condition of the disks and calipers.
  • Flush through the brake fluid.
  • Flush the radiator and refill with Toyota red coolant. You may want to use a chemical flush
  • Remove the prop shafts, check the UJs and regrease, clean the grease from the splined shaft and reapply by hand as opposed to via the grease nipple.
  • When draining any of the oils above it gives you a good opportunity to inspect the oils, checking for deposits on the drain plugs (where magnetic ones are fitted) as well as checking the colour and smell.
  • You may see things like sludge coming out of the diffs where there has been water ingress or grease from the CVs (more common), with autos if the gearbox oil isn't changed regularly enough it may smell burnt from overheating.
  • Personally unless there is history to the contrary, if prepping a new car for a long overlanding trip I would change the CVs and all wheel and swivel bearings purely for peace of mind.
  • Having said that I have seen 80s clock up several thousand miles with no grease in the CVs or wheel bearings, collapsed swivel bearings, clicking CVs, etc - they are extremely strong parts.
  • Also, if you have a 12 valve 80 series with 100,000 miles + on it I would change out the Big End Bearings. The various threads around on this recommend changing them every 100,000 miles. Having done some on 80s around the 150,000-200,000 miles mark they have all had quite serious pitting on at least two sets of bearings. OK it is difficult to know how long the pitting had been there and how much longer the engines would have lasted, however you need to bear in mind when they do go, they go with a bang.
  • Also on the engine front I would be inclined to check the valve gaps as well as possibly get the injectors and fuel injection pump tested/serviced - ideally the valves should be checked every 30k miles and the IP side of things checked every 100k miles. Fortunately I have found a good firm in Swindon who can do it very reasonably.

 

45) Nairobi for beginners:

Welcome to Nairobi!

Buy an AtoZ map book of Nairobi, buy a local SIM card from Nakumatt to help with any breakdowns etc. Also bring compass that works inside a car. Go to a chemist back home and buy a safe needle kit. Look up the Kenyan Flying doctor service on the internet and buy temporary membership of Kenyan Flying Doctor evacuation service for the period you are out in Kenya. Join the Kenyan Automobile Association breakdown service for additional protection.

The first weeks here are not always easy, but many people think it is a wonderful place to live. Here are some of the bureaucratic hurdles you have to overcome - and tips from people who were successful. Primarily this is for foriegn journalists, however most work permits follow a similar procedure.

 

46) Ethiopia for beginners:

We got a visa at the embassy in Nairobi, which required international drivers license and either carnet or log book (we were able to use our Kenyan log book, but needed to leave the original at the border).

We then drove from Nairobi to Isiolo on the first day. Isiolo to Marsabit on the second day, and Marsabit to Moyale on the third day. Reasonably long days (dawn till dusk), really crap roads, very corrugated, etc. Got really badly bogged in a sandy flow (up to the door handles!) in Moyale town, just 10 meters from the gates of the KWA. Half the town turned out to watch/help.


Border crossing was pretty routine, the eithiopians were reasonably officious, including attempting to check that the engine numbers matched, but really no trouble.

They give you a temporary import permit that got checked at few checkpoints as we moved north.

 

47) Namibia Self Drive- Trip report- Observations and tips

Driving:
Driving is not as hard as it might initially sound especially if you stay on the main routes and take it easy with speed. However a 4x4 is certainly recommended. Its sturdier, you got less chance to get flat tires (I had none) and there are a few places that you can’t do without (like the route D1930 from Spitzkope to UIS where the sandy riverbed was not passable by 2x4). The roads are well maintained, thoroughly signposted and accurate maps are commonly available.

Car Hire Company : Advanced Car Hire:
Positive experience. The pick us up from the airport and returned us there even though we had returned the car two days prior to our flight. Their service was good and straightforward. Did not have any emergencies or breakdowns to see how they would cope but they promise to cover any breakdown in 24 hours. Their full insurance was the most extensive I found on the market (covered everything including glass and tyre but excluding under car damage and clutch damage).They even agreed to modify the number of booked days due to a last minute change in our plans. My only concern was that the car was not new (reg 2005). Although the car itself coped very well on the road, the tent and the camping gear showed signs of degradation.

Travel Agency: The Cardboard Box
I contacted them in order to arrange accommodation for us especially with NWR which I found very difficult to reach. They did a great job booking all accommodation in the busy and popular places (Sesriem campsite, Ethosa campsites) and costing us nothing (the prices they charged where exactly the same we would have booked ourselves and they charged no commission). They even prepared a small package with an excellent information booklet, a road map of Namibia and our booking vouchers and send it to the hotel we spend the first night. Fast to respond and reliable. They seem to know what they are doing. Highly recommended.

Hotels and Campsites
Rivendell, Windhoek: Excellent. Felt more like a home rather than a hotel. Safety can be a concern outside the hotel. According to a taxi driver lots of tourists have been targeted in the past close to this hotel. Apparently the problem is now “solved” with increased police patrols.
Naukluft Campsite: Nice and not crowded.
Sesriem Campsite: Really expensive but definitely one of the best we stayed
Hotel Pension Rapmund-Swakopmund: Excellent little hotel
Spitzkoppe Community campsite: Absolutely recommended. Not really a campsite (come prepared) but the location is stunning and the locals are friendly
Aba Huab Campsite: Nice campsite- friendly people
Palwag Campiste: along with Sossusvlei and Waterberg the best campsites we stayed. The staff was excellent.
Okaukuejo: Avoid campsites 4 and 5. They got no shadow! We got allocated no 4 and got roasted during the day. The waterhole is crowded with people but also crowded with animals. The elephants provided a guaranteed show both days. Rhinos were also punctual to the rendez vous both nights around 8 pm. Even though I found it to be the worst camp in Etosha its waterhole is amazing.
Halali: the LP guide says its waterhole is the best viewing venue on the park. We might have been unlucky but in 3 x 1 hour visits (2 day + 1 night) we show 2 impalas and one elephant in total
Namutomi: the waterhole is void of animals save for the frogs and the various birds. The campsite is probably the best in the park.
Waterberg: Great place and campsite.

Animal Viewing:
During the dry period there are tons of animals in Etosha and its very easy to spot them. Predators on the other hand are quite tricky. We marveled at a pack of lions in Etosha but somehow felt this was a very lucky incident. Cheetahs are like searching for a pin in a haystack.
I strongly recommend one of the guided hikes in Palmwag. You see fewer animals than the driving tours but the feeling of been there on foot is unbeatable.

Safety:
Outside cities I never felt any kind of concern regarding our safety. We didn’t stay long enough inside towns to have a definite view but got a bad vibe in general. Seems like hire car with roof tents are a magnet for all kinds of strange people. Got the same situation in Otjo, Okinjima and Odjiwarongo. A pleasant exception was Tsumeb which felt surprisingly relaxed.
Weirdest encounter: We were once flagged down by a teenager a few km outside . He asked for some water and then he asked me “if I can step out of the vehicle”(!!!).No wonder I left immediately but I am still wondering what would be the alternative ending of this incident (there was noone else evidently around)…

48)West Africa for beginners (the situation in Senegal may have changed recently):

The difference between Ghana and Senegal is huge. Senegal no longer allows vehicles in (permanently) which are more than 5 years old, and what it DOES allow in, they charge a 100% duty on, unless you already have paid the right people to have a Senegalese corporation to avoid the taxes. Bringing a vehicle in through the Gambia and paying a Coronet to allow use in the WA countries, this would be smarter. Vehicles already in WA are often badly beat already, from the roads, etc., Vehicles in Senegal are way overpriced, owing to the taxes, etc. Even Guinea Conakry might be a better port to import, and that place is about as corrupt as anywhere in the world.

There's one guy I know, Mamadou Sy... I'll have to find his phone number, assuming it hasn't changed. He has some sort of deal selling Americans' SUVs on a car lot he owns. If you can't be persuaded to buy a car in the States and ship it in, then that's the only other idea I have. What's bought in WA stays in WA, btw. Europe won't accept WA country's paperwork as legit ownership, so you can't bring them back out of Africa once they've been registered in Africa.

 

49) Tom and Jana's experience of crossing the SA/Botswana border in a rental car


Yom and Jana: Approaching the border at Martin's Drift

Here is the Groblersbrug/Martin's Drift border procedure, as best I recall:

- On the South Africa side (Groblersbrug/Grobler's Bridge), park your vehicle and go to the main building in the middle of the parking lot.

- Go to the customs window first. They'll want to see your Letter of Authority from the rental place and certificate of registration. Get a gate pass.

- Go to the immigration window. They'll stamp your passport and your gate pass.

- Get back in your car and drive on.

- Another officer will stop you and take your gate pass. He also opened our hood and looked at the certificate of registration's chassis number and checked under our hood, I guess looking for chopped car parts.

- You are now leaving South Africa.

- On the Botswana side (Martin's Drift), park your vehicle and enter the main building, which looks like an elementary school.

- Get some condoms. They are free at Botswana border crossings and national park entrances. (One in four adult citizens of Botswana is infected with HIV.) Supposedly, the free-condom packages used to be decorated with the Botswana flag, but they were just plain and boring when we got ours.

- Go to the immigration window first. They'll give you a form. Fill it out and go back to the window. They'll stamp your passport and have the driver sign a vehicle register book found on the counter. The officer will ask for the vehicle registration number, write it on a gate pass and stamp it. Take this with you.

- If you've nothing to declare, the passenger is done and can wait for the driver outside. (I stayed with Tom, but I saw some other passengers get kicked out.)

- Get customs to stamp your gate pass.

- The driver goes to the cashier's window, just past customs. This is where you pay a tax to get a road permit for the vehicle. We could not buy pula, Botswana's currency, before crossing the border, yet Botswana asks for the road tax in pula. They allowed us to pay in rand. It was 60 pula or 80 rand. They will give you a "Department of Customs and Excise Official Receipt."

- I've read elsewhere about the necessity of buying a road disc for your vehicle from the cashier. This is no longer done.

- We asked the cashier about getting a double-entry permit since we'd be leaving Botswana in a few days to go to Zambia and then returning, but she wouldn't do it and said we had to pay each time.

- Get back in your vehicle and proceed to the gate. The officer will take the gate pass and look at the road permit. Get the road permit back. That is yours to keep as a nice souvenir.

- Welcome to Botswana!

 

And back again...

At 9:30 we stopped at the filling station in Sherwood, where we topped off with gas and had a burger and fries at a fast-food restaurant called Barcelos connected to the gas station, using up the rest of our pula.

By this point I was a border paperwork pro. The procedure to cross from Botswana to South Africa at Martin's Drift/Groblersbrug is as follows:

- On the Botswana side, park at the main building, which looks like an elementary school.

- Go inside to the customs window. The driver signs a book and gets a gate pass.

- Go next to the immigration window. They'll give you a form to fill out. Fill out the form, return to the window, and they'll stamp both your passport and the gate pass.

- Get back in your vehicle and proceed to the gate, where they will collect your gate pass and let you through.

- On the South Africa side, park your vehicle and walk up to the main building in the middle of the parking lot.

- Go first to the immigration window, where they'll stamp your passport and give you a gate pass.

- Next go to the customs window, where they'll stamp the gate pass.

- Return to your vehicle and proceed to the gate, where they will collect your gate pass, hopefully not notice your missing taillight, and let you through.

Yeah, we were worried about crossing back into South Africa with our missing taillight. If we were going to get hassled about it anywhere, this was gonna be it. We hoped since the truck was registered in South Africa, they'd let us in anyway. Our worries were for nothing. Thankfully, no one noticed. What a relief! At 10:30 we were back in South Africa and driving like mad again.

 

50) Tom and Jana's experience of the Kazungula Ferry:

On the Zambian side of the river, all was a mass of confusion. There is no real parking area, and you just have to abandon your vehicle wherever it will fit while you visit the ill-marked jumble of bureaucratic buildings to get your paperwork in order and pay the various required fees. Columbus and one of his friends guided Tom and me through the maze of administration. Sometimes we were together, and at other times we separated to save time in visiting all the different offices. They got us through in about 30 minutes what would have otherwise taken us most of the day and caused endless frustration.

Here, in as excruciating of detail as I can muster, are the steps necessary to cross from Botswana to Zambia at Kazungula with a vehicle:

- On approaching the border on the Botswana side, bypass the huge line of trucks, park, and proceed to immigration. Fill in the forms supplied. The immigration officer will stamp your passport and give you a gate pass.

- At customs, the driver is to sign a book, and the officer will put an additional stamp on the gate pass.

- With the gate pass, get back in your vehicle and proceed. Give the gate pass to the officer at the gate. He will keep it. You have now officially left Botswana and are in no-man's-land until you fulfill all the requirements on the other side of the border.

- Squeeze your way around more trucks and pedestrians until you reach the river. If there are other cars there waiting to board, get close behind them, but be sure they're actually waiting to board the ferry and not just there waiting to pick up foot passengers. If there are no other cars waiting to board, position your vehicle as closely as possible to the landing, leaving barely enough room for the vehicles on the ferry to exit.

- When the incoming ferry has emptied, drive on board. There won't necessarily be anyone to tell you to proceed, but if they aren't ready for you, presumably, they'll stop you. One car, or possibly two cars side by side, will drive on, then a cargo truck, then possibly one or two more cars. Car passengers must get out and board by foot; only the driver is permitted in the vehicle when loading onto the ferry.

- Once on board, the driver exits the vehicle and signs a book. Then you make the grand voyage of 400 meters across the river before getting back in the vehicle.

- On the Zambia side, any vehicle passengers exit on foot. The driver gets back in the vehicle, drives off, and parks anywhere he can, trying to leave room for others to get by, if possible. This is pretty tricky, and Tom had to leave immigration once and go move the 4x4 to let a cargo truck by.

- Go first to immigration, where you get your passport stamped and pay for a visa. If you are going only as far as Livingstone to see Victoria Falls, it's possible to get your visa fee waived if you make reservations at a lodge in advance. The lodge must arrange the visa waiver for you. I told the immigration officer we were staying at Maramba Lodge in Livingstone and should have a visa waiver, and he checked a "Maramba Lodge" three-ring binder and found the proper documents, so we got in free. Otherwise, as Americans, it would have cost $100 each to enter Zambia. Sheesh.

- Fill out a CIP (Customs Import Permit) at customs, which is in the same little building as immigration, at the next window. Here you will have to show either ownership papers or, in our case, a Letter of Authority from the rental company saying you have permission to use the vehicle and cross into other countries with it. Pay a "consul levy fee" of 10,000 kwacha ($2.50). (I actually paid them 10 pula, which seems like it should have been 15 pula considering the exchange rate, but that's what they asked for when I proposed paying in pula.) I believe this fee was paid at the customs window, but I'm not certain. Get a receipt.

- In a different building pay for the ferry. The pontoon ferry payment office is reasonably well marked. It was $20 for our vehicle, a Nissan hardbody pickup truck. Tom did this while I was paying the carbon tax. Get a receipt.

- In yet another building, at a somewhat hidden window, pay the carbon tax (Thanks, Al Gore) for your vehicle. The fee is by engine volume. I guessed 3 liter (turns out it was only a tiny 2.3 liter, but it's the same price either way). The fee was 150,000 kwacha ($38, but they wanted kwacha). The officer didn't ask for any paperwork to verify the engine size. Get a receipt.

- Also, Zambia requires third-party motor vehicle insurance, conveniently available for purchase right there at the border. A three-month policy is the minimum available, and we paid 225,000 kwacha ($56, but they wanted kwacha). This "office" was in a shipping container with a spray-painted sign on the side. They need the registration number and chassis number off your paperwork from the rental company or your ownership papers. They gave us a one-page certificate of insurance. There were other shipping-container-based third-party insurance offices as well, so maybe you can shop around and get a better deal.

- Columbus had fronted us the kwacha to pay the carbon tax, so we had to pay him back 150,000 kwacha, plus we needed 225,000 kwacha for the insurance. The currency exchange office at the border was closed, perhaps because it was Saturday, so we had to do a black-market exchange right there in the third-party insurance office. In Livingstone they were giving 4,000 kwacha per $1, but here where we were captive customers, we got only 3,500 kwacha per $1, so the 375,000 kwacha cost us $107. At this point I gave Columbus 30 pula, though he'd asked for only 20 pula. Money well spent.

- All that having been done, in a little phone-booth-sized building next to the officer at the exit gate, I signed a book and filled in vehicle information again, then got back in the 4x4 with Tom, who had pulled up to the gate. Columbus's friend spoke to the officer, and he waved us on through without asking us any questions or looking at any of the multitude of certificates, receipts, and various bits of papers we'd collected.

- This is the end of the border crossing. We made it. Yippee! It cost us $130 in total to cross into Zambia with our vehicle. The four fees were the ferry, consul levy fee, carbon tax, and third-party insurance.

 

And going back again...

The passage back across the border at Kazungula was much easier traveling this direction, especially since we halfway knew what we were doing this time. The procedure is as follows:

- On the Zambia side, park wherever you can, giving some uninvited volunteer a small tip, if you must, to watch your vehicle.

- Go into the pontoon ferry payment office and pay for ferry passage. It was $20 for our Nissan hardbody pickup truck.

- Proceed to immigration, located in a different building, sign the book, and get your passport stamped.

- Proceed to customs and get a gate pass.

- Get back in your vehicle and drive up to the gate, hand over the gate pass which they will keep.

- Bypass the line of trucks and pull up to the ferry landing and wait.

A drunk and/or crazy guy tried to "help" us with ferry boarding. At first we gave him some of our paperwork, thinking he was some sort of official. He was not. At least he gave our paperwork back!

- Unlike when we crossed two days ago, this time when the ferry arrived, an official worker directed the vehicles on board. Two pickups drove on side by side, then a big cargo truck, then they managed to squeeze another pickup onboard, and then us. Our truck was precariously perched, but it worked.

- The passenger gets out of the vehicle before the driver loads the truck and boards the ferry with the other foot passengers.

- On board the ferry, the driver must show the receipt where ferry passage has been paid and sign the register.

- On the Botswana side, after the 400-meter ferry crossing is made, the driver unloads the vehicle, and the passenger walks off.

- Park wherever.

- Proceed to immigration, fill out their form, and get your passport stamped. They will give you a gate pass.

- Get customs to stamp your gate pass.

- The driver then goes to the cashier's window, just past customs. Here you pay a tax to get a road permit for the vehicle, 50 pula. We had to pay again even though we'd just paid when entering Botswana nine days before. You get a nice looking, very official permit, and I think they stamped the gate pass here also.

- Get back in your vehicle and proceed to the exit, where an officer will collect your gate pass.

- Drive through the dirty pool of disinfectant on your way out. This is a hoof-and-mouth disease control measure. Also, if they feel like it, officials will confiscate your meat and possibly dairy products for the same reason. No one questioned us about any meat, and we went on our way.

It was nice to be back in the seeming innocence of Botswana after the rat race of Zim/Zam. As soon as we left Kazungula, a baboon ran across the highway right in front of us. It was like coming home again!


Go well,

Enzo, +44 (0) 776 860 6729 - enzo(at)africa4x4cafe.com

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The AFRICA 4X4 CAFE: a self-drive safari to the 2010 Football World Cup in South Africa.